Farming News - Farmer pipped at post in producing upmarket beef

Farmer pipped at post in producing upmarket beef

A LAKES hotelier has conceded that “great minds think alike” after learning that his farm would not be the first in the country to provide a rare type of beef to the British public.

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KOBE-STYLE BEEF: The meat from Japanese Wagyu cattle, like these calves at Jonathan Denby’s farm, is the most prized beef in the world

Jonathan Denby, owner of Lakes Hotels, first had the idea to breed Japanese Wagyu cattle at his farm in High Lowscales, Millom, around five years ago.

He wanted to have the first farm in the country which could produce the Kobe-style beef, famed for being the “caviar of the meat world”.

But Mr Denby has had to admit being pipped to the post by Suffolk farmer Andrew Deacon, who is now supplying the upmarket meat to his local pub, and to Raymond Blanc’s gourmet restaurant Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons.

Mr Denby said: “My immediate thought was that two people had the same idea unbeknown to each other.

“I suppose great minds think alike.”

Because Japan does not allow the animals to be physically exported, Mr Denby had to buy embryos from the Netherlands, and use his Galloway cattle as surrogate mothers.

His first Wagyu calves were born two-and-a-half years ago, and he hopes that, some time in the new year, the first of his now nine-strong herd will be ready for the slaughter.

Mr Denby says his produce will give local people the chance to taste Wagyu beef at a reasonable price.

He said: “At the moment, extortionate prices are being charged by the likes of Gordon Ramsay, on the basis of the popular myth that these animals are fed beer and given massages.

“Having been to breeders in Japan, I know this is pure rubbish. Mr Deacon and myself both recognise that. My aim, as I’m sure is his, is to produce this beef at a reasonable price which local people can afford.”

While Mr Denby might not own the first farm in the country to breed and sell its own Wagyu, he is still very proud of his venture.

He said: “Although the edge has been taken off by the news that I’ve been pipped to the post, it’s still a very important project. We want to promote the Lake District, and the connection with Japan is tremendously important to me.

“I love their cuisine and the opportunity to produce Wagyu from our home is very special.

“If they’re not the first in England, they’ll be the first in Cumbria.”