The morning light washes over Norbu Gyeltshen's terraced fields with a soft, deliberate glow, catching the pale seed heads of quinoa that rise among the maize and chili. When Norbu and his wife, Pema Sedon, first planted the crop in their little town of Bartsham in eastern Bhutan, it was little more than an experiment: one row among many in the red soil that had only ever held rice and buckwheat.

Now the crop stands at the centre of their work. Last season they harvested about 1 200 kilograms, enough to see the difference in both income and ease. The increased production could be because of the different variety and the use of organic manure, Norbu says, brushing the soil from his palms.

"Before quinoa, many of us struggled to make our farms profitable. Now, we feel hopeful. The crop has strengthened our community and shown us that small farmers can thrive," he added. "Farming is easier, steadier, and more meaningful for our families now."

With quinoa, the farmers are also less worried about losing everything to pests or weather.

In less than a decade, quinoa has gone from an obscure Andean grain to a national priority in Bhutan. Backed by royal decree, the "Queen of Grains", as it is known locally, now thrives in remote mountain villages. Today, quinoa is grown across all 20 districts of Bhutan. In Norbu's village of Bartsham, farmers harvested about 17 tonnes in 2023.

Recognizing quinoa as the country's special agricultural product under the One Country One Priority Product (OCOP) initiative of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), Bhutan is now building the capacity of farmers like Norbu through training and support to grow this resilient crop and gain better access to markets.

Expansion continues through community seed banks, supported by FAO and Bhutan's Ministry of Agriculture and Livestock. In the exchange of seeds between neighbours and in meetings where farmers plan new plantings, there is a growing confidence that the soil can still provide.

In the early 2010s, Bhutan faced erratic rainfall and declining productivity of traditional crops like red rice and buckwheat, increasing dependence on imported cereals. In 2015, FAO worked with the government to introduce quinoa as part of efforts to test climate-resilient and nutrient-rich crops suited to high-altitude conditions. Farmers discovered a grain that could thrive on thin soils and withstand variable weather, while providing higher nutritional value than most local staples.

The decisive moment came when His Majesty, King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk, visited a demonstration plot at the National Centre for Organic Agriculture in Thimphu. Impressed by its potential, he decreed the expansion of quinoa cultivation across the country. Between 2016 and 2019, FAO and the Ministry of Agriculture and Livestock multiplied seeds, trained farmers and raised awareness. What began as a test in a few remote villages quickly evolved into a coordinated national effort.

Bhutan's participation in FAO's OCOP initiative gave the effort structure. OCOP helps countries identify a single strategic product and develop its value chain from seed to market. For Bhutan, quinoa's resilience aligned with national goals to diversify diets, raise farmer incomes and promote organic production.

Bartsham emerged as the showcase. Its cool, temperate climate suits high-altitude crops. Today 72 households grow quinoa, with five model farmers cultivating 16 acres.

For older farmers like Jampel Gyeltshen, 58, quinoa's appeal is simple. "As you grow older, farming becomes harder," he says. "But quinoa needs little weeding and isn't damaged by wild animals."

The real test came in scaling up consumption. Bhutanese cuisine revolves around red rice, buckwheat and millet. Quinoa had no cultural roots. Yet it is now mixed into red rice, added to khule—buckwheat pancakes—and made into porridge and dumplings at local gatherings.

At Jigme Dorji Wangchuck National Referral Hospital, an FAO-supported pilot replaced 10 percent of white rice with quinoa in patient meals. Over six months, quinoa substitution led to a decrease a 2 000 kilogram decrease in rice consumption. Fibre and protein intake improved, helping combat diet-related non-communicable diseases. Seventy-five percent of patients accepted the change—a surprisingly high rate for dietary intervention.

Building on this, the government has begun introducing quinoa into school meals, targeting a five percent reduction in rice consumption. But Dawa Gyeltshen, principal of Bartsham Central School, like many others, worry whether production can meet rising demand.

In response, the government has made quinoa a priority commodity to strengthen food security and enhance climate resilience. It aims to expand commercial cultivation through partnerships with farmer groups, state enterprises and private players. Research continues on high-yielding quinoa varieties, including tricolour types that might fetch higher prices.

FAO has installed a weather station in Bartsham to provide real-time data on rainfall, frost and microclimate variations. The information supports traceability for a Geographical Indication and Environmental Sustainability recognition, which Bhutan is pursuing. That designation would open new export markets and reward organic production methods.

As dusk settles over Bartsham's terraced hills, the last shafts of light catch the bronze tassels of ripening quinoa. For farmers like Norbu and Jampel, those fields shimmer with a new tradition in mountain agriculture and new opportunities for its farmers.

The story and photos can be found here: https://www.fao.org/newsroom/story/new-ground-for-quinoa-in-bhutan/en